1. Keep mowing until the grass stops growing
Grass keeps growing into November in most years. Keep mowing at your normal height, 3 to 3.5 inches for most lawns, and follow the one-third rule from Ohio State University Extension: never remove more than a third of the blade at once. There is no need to scalp the last cut. Very short grass going into winter has fewer reserves and shallower roots.
2. Don’t let leaves sit on the grass
A light layer of leaves can be mulched right into the lawn with the mower. A thick, wet layer is different: left for weeks, it blocks light and traps moisture against the grass, which invites snow mold and dead spots by spring. Rake or bag heavy layers, and keep at it until the trees are bare.
3. Give the lawn a late-fall feeding
Purdue University turf researchers recommend a late-fall nitrogen feeding for cool-season lawns around the time of the last mowing. The grass is no longer growing much on top, but the roots are still active and store that energy for an earlier green-up in spring. If you are on a lawn care plan, ask whether it includes a late-fall visit.
4. It’s too late to seed
Grass seed sown in late fall rarely grows enough to survive the winter here. Ohio State University Extension puts the seeding window in September for central Ohio, and Northeast Ohio cools off sooner. Mark the thin spots now, and plan on fall over-seeding and core aeration next year.
5. Stake the edges before the ground freezes
If a plow clears your driveway, put stakes along the edges while you can still push them in. They keep the blade off the lawn and out of the beds, and they save you from re-seeding a torn-up strip in April.
6. Go easy on salt near the lawn
Rock salt that lands on the grass along walks and driveways can burn it, leaving a brown strip in spring. Shovel first, use only as much salt as you need, and avoid piling salty snow on the lawn.
7. Stay off frosty grass
Frozen grass blades break when you walk on them, and the footprints can turn brown. Wait until the frost melts before cutting across the yard.
8. Put the mower and hoses away
Clean the grass off the mower deck, and get the blade sharpened over the winter so the first cut in spring is clean. Drain and store hoses, and shut off outdoor faucets so they do not freeze.
9. Start spring planning now
Crabgrass prevention has to go down before the soil warms in April, so spring comes up fast. If your lawn struggled with weeds or thin areas this year, now is a good time to set up a weed control and fertilization plan for next season. Quotes are free: request one online or call or text 440-840-5018.
Sources
- Ohio State University Extension, mowing fact sheet (HYG-5816)
- Purdue University Turfgrass Science, Fall Fertilization
- Ohio State University Extension, Fairfield County, "Reseeding thin patches in the lawn should happen now" (2022)
- Michigan State University Extension, Timing crabgrass preemergence applications in spring